The spell cast by Hoysala temple architecture and its history never wears off! There is always something new to marvel at.
My sister
and I have journeyed through several hidden Hoysala architectural gems. I've
featured some of them in my earlier blogs and I'm yet to catch up on the ones I missed writing. This time around I decided to blog again.
As always, we
want to thank C K Nagaraja Rao’s research books “Pattamahadevi Shantaladevi",
"Veeraganga Vishnuvardhana" and "Dayada Daavanala” (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C._K._Nagaraja_Rao)
as inspiration to all our visits to the lesser-known Hoysala temples in Karnataka that offer architectural splendour away from the
heavy crowds of Belur and Halebidu.
Idea was a short 2N/3D trip, to cover about six
temple towns near Hassan city (attention span issues if you try to squeeze more). After some search
on the net, decided to make Hassan as base and go around using local taxi. Selected
Hoysala Village Resort (7 Kms from the city on Halebedu Road) for our stay. This is a heritage look and feel kind of place.
As usual booked one way drop Savaari Taxi (One way drop is such a
convenient road travel for us & have been doing it for few years now) and off we went on June 16th 2026.
Day-1: Left home by 6:45AM from Bangalore to Hassan, a 200 km comfortable ride. We had a good breakfast at Dhruvathare on NH75. Since we travel only on weekdays to avoid weekend crowd, there is usually less traffic & hotels are OK for earlier check-in as well.
We had a
traditional welcome at the hotel with Arthi, kunkuma and flower 😊It
is a beautifully done property in Kerala/South Canara architecture and has a good
landscape – As per the manager, it was an absolute dry land 20 yrs ago. After
check-in, enjoyed authentic tasty Maland style lunch. Had some rest before we took off to see 2 temples by the hotel arranged taxi.
First temple was 24 km from the hotel in Mosale – known as Mosale Twin temple of Nageshwara (dedicated to Shiva) and Chennakeshava (dedicated to Vishnu) in a single complex next to each other. Probably showcasing harmonious coexistence of Shaivism and Vaishnavism under the Hoysalas. It was built around 1200 CE during the King Vira Ballala rule.
 |
| Hoysala Emblem |
Temple gopura have Hoysala lanchana/emblem (the sculpture of the legendary warrior "Sala" fighting a lion). Built in the classic Hoysala architecture in soapstone (each temple has a small porch leading into a closed square hall (navaranga) with pillars, a vestibule (sukhanasi) and the main sanctum). Outerwall have intricate carving of sculptures.
 |
| Mosale Twin Temple |
 |
| Outerwall |
It started pouring as soon as viji opened her camera to
start her clicks 😊.
We walked around in the rain, thankfully we had umbrellas. No one except
us was there. Watchman’s wife was on site and opened Nageshwara temple for us.
This has Shivalinga and idols of Goddess Chamundeshwari, Saptamarthike, Durga, Ganapati & Sharada. The outer walls are filled with intricate carvings.
 |
Interestingly, Nageshwara temple is open to everyone and allowed inside garbagudi/sanctum. There is a Lingayat priest who performs pooja every morning & anyone can do pooja if they want to . In contrast, Chennakeshava temple was closed and we could only peep inside the garbagudi – Madhava priest does the pooja in the morning & locks the door. Watchman does not even have the key to open. I guess, original intent of Hoysala rulers gone with the wind. This temple has idols of Garuda, Keshava, Janardhana, Venugopala, Madhava and Bhudevi.
Although this complex is under ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) as a protected monument, it is not well maintained ☹saw an blue ugly drum next to the idols.
Our second stop was Doddagaddavalli about 36 km from Mosale - Lakshmi Devi temple.Believed to be one of the oldest (or the oldest) of Hoysala temples. Built in 1113 CE by a wealthy merchant Kalhana Ravuta and his wife Sahaja Devi during the Hoysala King Vishnuvardhana’s rule.
 |
| Lakshmidevi Temple |
It is a
well-maintained soapstone complex. First
impression is that, it is not in a typical Hoysala architecture. it’s gopura is
in North Indian style of Nagara shikhara and temple is not on a platform
like their other temples. Outerwall has no intricate carvings either. Some
researchers say it has lot of pre-Hoysala elements as well. Hoysala emblem is on
top of the gopura.
The main
temple has four-shrines that share a common mantapa each sanctum being a square
and aligned to a cardinal direction. The eastern shrine houses the Mahalakshmi,
the northern shrine is dedicated to Kali, the western to Shiva (worshipped as
Lakshmi’s brother) and the southern shrine, once dedicated to Vishnu
(worshipped as Parvati’s brother to keep her calm) now is empty due to
widespread vandalism and destruction. This complex also has a separate Bhairava
shrine.
 |
| Devi Kali |
 |
| Betala |
In front of Kali on either side is a stone statue of
skeleton/goblin-Betala. To us this was
the highlight as you can’t find this anywhere else. Although Parvati is in Kali
form, she is Sowmya roopi. There are carvings on ceiling. It has a very serene atmosphere inside the
main hall.
 |
| Main Hall |
 |
| Devi Lakshmi |
A beautiful
leisurely temple visit ended and back to the hotel. I must say, hotel has an awesome restaurant
if you like vegetarian authentic Malnad food.
Day 2: -
Today, we planned to visit temples in Koravangala, Harinahalli, Arasikere & Javagal. Hope to see more historic temples in-between if our taxi driver is
local & knowledgeable.
Breakfast was finger-licking good – Amazing authentic native spread served on a bale
yele/plantain leaf. This restaurant is open to all…a must try if you are on
this route! It was a sunny & bright morning with lot of birds.
 |
| Bucheshwara Temple |
Our first stop was Koravangala – Bucheshwara temple, which is about 17 kms from the resort. Bucheshwara temple was built around 1173CE during the rule of Hoysala King Veera Ballala by a wealthy patron “Buchi”. As we reached the temple complex, from the outside looked small but awesome with its striking Hoysala emblem on the top. It is a dvikuta (two shrines) that face each other. These shrines are connected by a closed mantapa (hall) and an open mantapa. The smaller one houses Bhairava.
 |
| Shiva |
 |
| Surya |
Inside the garbagudi there is also a Surya deva idol, sort of rare I guess & main bigger temple has Shiva linga. Pillars inside are shiny. It has a three storeyed garba gruha, a gudha-mantapa and a ranga-mantapa There are other idols inside main hall. Saraswati/Sharada in particular attracted me – graceful stance with Japamala in one hand and Vedas & water pot in another. Unfortunate that although under ASI control…as recent as 2020, Ganesha idol from the main hall is chipped off and stolen. Extremely sad that earlier it was the invaders who stole idols but now it is our own people stealing and destroying our own heritage.
 |
| Devi Saraswathi |
 |
| Ceiling |
 |
| Simple pillars |
 |
| Exterior wall of Bucheshwara |
Exterior wall is splendid and has Bhairava, Saraswati, Durga, Narasimha, Bramha & Venugopal among others. Many images are mutalated or stolen.
 |
| Ruins |
Next to this temple is a twin temple complex in ruins. (Nageshwara temple dedicated to Shiva and Govindeshwara dedicated to Vishnu) commissioned around 1160 CE during the rule of Hoysala King Narasimha I by Govinda (Govindayya) and Naka (Nakimayya), who were elder brothers of Buchi. Both these temples are in complete shambles and idols stolen.
Bare temple structure &
an intact shilasana/inscription exist. It is used
by locals to tie their cows ☹
Next stop
was Haranahalli which is 30 km from Koravangala. Here there are two temples (Lakshminarasimha
temple & Someshwara temples within 100 meters distance) built around 1235CE
by Hoysala King Vira Someshwara.
 |
| Keshava Temple |
While
entering Lakshminarasimha temple, it looked magnificent with lot of carving on
the the Outerwall & in its niches. Even the gopura had lot of
intricate carvings. This is a typical ornate trikutachala (triple-shrine)
style of Hoysala temple architecture standing on a platform dedicated to
Lakshminarasimha, Venugopala and Keshava. There is a well-preserved inscription
which states, this temple was dedicated to Keshava and was called Keshava
temple earlier. Noticed a Varahi sculpture on the Outerwall - Varaha is common but rare to see Varahi. |
| Carvings |
 |
| Varahi |
 |
| Chandramouleshwara |
 |
| Side view |
Chandramouleshwara temple (Also referred as Ishwara temple) was built around 1220CE during the rule of Hoysala king Narasimha II. There is a 16 point star shaped mantapa with domed ceiling with 21 pillars and benches at corners. Unfortunately, ceiling is collapsing and repair work is yet to start. We were not allowed to enter the mantapa. Main temple has Siva lingam with mukuta and a beautiful devi. All other idols are stolen. Pillars are magnificent.
 |
| Interior |
 |
There are exquisite carvings on the external wall. During 14th century it is
believed many idols and carvings were mutilated and/or stolen. There are
inscription stones and veera gallu/hero stone in the temple complex
 |
| Inscription and Veera Gallu@site |
It also has two simple and non-ornate Veereshwara and
Bukeshwara temple next to the main temple.
 |
| Lakshminarasimha |
Our next stop was Javagal, it is about 26 km from
here. We delayed our lunch plan as we wanted to reach Javagal and see the most decorated Lakshminarasimha temple
before it got too hot.
External wall has lot of intricate carvings and beautiful idols. This magnificent temple was
locked but we could walk around the complex. Contact number of the priest was on the door (common in most of the lesser known temples) and usually they come when you call. There were
lot of people waiting at the entrance and since no one had called, I tried and
that priest said he was out of town after his morning pooja and that only he
has the key. Due to thefts, he does not give key even to ASI’s employee – its watchman
(go figure! 😊)
It was about 2PM and we told our taxi driver to stop
for lunch at Itihakala restaurant for pure-veg Joladha roti plantain leaf meal
on Halebedu route towards our hotel (have
been to this place couple of yrs ago- tried & tested :-) ) it is an unassuming simple place with
decent food) after lunch we stopped by Pulikere/Hulikere.
Here you have the famous private pond of queen
Natyarani Shanthala (wife of Vishnuvardhana famous king of Hoysala). Viji had
reference to this pond from Dr CK Nagaraj Rao’s book back in 2015 when we
first started some of the off-the-beaten track Hoysala temples journey, we searched and searched for this in Chikkamagaluru & found a Hulikere but no
pond. Town had ancient idol near garbage (my Chikkamagaluru blogs post has
details) Only later in 2017 we found this Hulikere is different and closer to
Halebedu & not the one near Chikkamagaluru.
 |
| Artifacts found at pond |
 |
| Pond |
This is an elaborate and ornate pond and is in three level and has 30 steps. It is said that this pond is designed as a confluence of astronomy & architecture. At mid height on all four sides, you can see ornate shrines representing Steller constellation, some of these shrines have shikara and some don’t/or ruined. An Incredible peaceful place to visit. With this, we concluded our amazing date with the Hoysalas.
Back to hotel! After some rest and going around the
property, had authentic Karnataka dinner which was delectable.
Day 3: Woke up leisurely to the musical sound of birds
chirping & good filter coffee. An
hour after scrumptious
plantain leaf breakfast, we tried their Ayurvedic spa’s Shirodhara
treatment. It was indeed a relaxing
wrap-up to a wonderful 2N/3D adventure & ready to head back to Bengaluru.
A pleasant
surprise during check-out! They made us sit and again did Arathi, kunkuma &
flower and gave a thambula bag with blouse piece, pack of their estate coffee
powder and cinnamon sticks.
Left by 1:30 PM & reached Bangalore around 5:30 PM and as always, was
welcomed by pot-holes, traffic jams & honking noise! So annoying but reminded me of the famous
line from a Vachana by 12th Century poet Akkamahadevi - ಸಂತೆಯೊಳಗೊಂದು ಮನೆಯ ಮಾಡಿ, ಶಬ್ದಕ್ಕೆ ನಾಚಿದೊಡೆಂತಯ್ಯ? ( Living in a house in market and how can you get
scared /shy of noise) Now we should add a line beyond noise referring to Bengaluru in
particular 😊
As usual I have to end with my 2 cents - Breathtaking craftmanship never ceases to mesmerize – Although only less than 500 Hoysala temples have been identified/discovered out of 1500 built during Hoysala rule, other than three popular ones (Belur, Halebedu and Somnathpur) none is given care & maintenance they deserve by ASI & citizens. Sad to see even their most complex architectural design temple in Arasikere is falling apart. It was heart-breaking to hear about idols being stolen in this decade by our own people. I feel, culture and history anchor a thriving society. We need to come together as a society to be proud and safe guard our heritage, culture and history!
