Boulders of Karnataka - Part 1

 After hiatus from writing travel blogs for couple of years, I am back.  This time to talk about grandeur Boulders of Karnataka.  I call Karnataka as “Boulder Capital” of India, the state that has the oldest rock formation in the country. So many beautiful billions of years old rocks & boulders that still exist here despite the tragic abuse of stone mafia and quarry. 

There are four main types of geological formations in Karnataka: The Archean complex made up of Dharwad schists and granitic gneisses: These cover around 60% of the area of the state and consist of gneisses, granites and charnockite rocks.  Oldest rock formation in India is in Karnataka - Dharwar rock formation: The bedrock in this region formed between 3.6 and 2.5 billion years ago. It is responsible for the formation of the first sedimentary and metamorphic rock in India. This is widespread especially in the Dharwar region of Karnataka which took its name from there

It is a goose bump experience every time you are up, close & personal with these magnificent rocks. We are blessed to have so many Betta (hill), Gudda (hill) and Parvatha (mountain) made from rocks & boulders of all shapes and size here in Karnataka. Talking about Betta, I recently realized why I am so fascinated with boulders. It is something I grew up around me in Basavanagudi, Bengaluru and admiration for boulders never stops.

In this blog series "Boulders of Karnataka", I want to tell you about boulders in and around (within 150Kms) Bengaluru and about lesser-known Betta of rocks in this area.  In Part-1 post, I am going back to my childhood and have listed some of the oldest rocks in my own backyard of Basavanagudi, and few are some distance away from Bengaluru. These were our childhood favourite spots as playground/picnic/day trip.

Hallows in the rocks

Kempegiwda Tower

Bugle Rock – An abrupt rise above the ground and is about 2.5 to 3.4 billion years old and spreads across 16 acres.  This rock is classified as “Peninsular Gneiss” – complex mixture of Granite rocks. At the highest point is one of the four watch towers built by Kempe Gowda the ruler of Bengaluru sometime in 16th century CE. We used to enjoy the panoramic view from this tower. Not anymore, since Bengaluru has grown beyond Kempe Gowda towers. You can still see hallows in rocks which were used to light lamps. Given the vicinity of our house to the main rock, it is on this beautiful rock bed. One of the oldest land formations on Earth! How cool is that?

Earlier days, it was a natural rugged area and not so safe especially for girls after dark. Cutting through this Bugle Rock was our short-cut to Gandhi Bazar and evenings used to be play area/club or Dhala as we used to call – a place for youngsters in and around the park to learn & play outdoor games and cultural activities under the guidance of Late. Mr.  K Gopi.  Sometime in 1990’s it was converted to a nice park with walk ways.  It attracts lot of walkers given the wonderful ambience. Since few decades with so many trees, it is now home to fruit bats/Indian Flying-fox, which nest and breed here.

Lalbagh Gudda

Geological significance

Lalbagh Gudda – This is adjacent to Bugle rock exposure; it is of same classification and age as Bugle rock.  Lalbagh is an Oxygen generating 240-acre beautiful lung space in the centre of our city.  Internationally renowned as a centre for botanical artwork and conservation of plants. 

Walking in Lalbagh, especially on the Gudda during regular morning walk is an intriguing experience every single time. Going up/down this hill multiple times serves as a training site before any long treks!

 Ramanjaneya Gudda/Hanumanthana Gudda- 

This hill is also close vicinity to Bugle rock and was a boulder hopping and a cow path to the top, back in the good old days.  In the late 60’s and 70’s, renowned local artist Late. Dr BKS Varma disciple of A N Subba Rao had done paintings of Ramayana and Mahabharata scenes on about fifty boulders.  Each scene was chosen as per boulder shape & size. Couple of decades ago, this Gudda was converted to a park with a walk-way to the top of the hill which has a huge Hanumantha temple.  I think you can still see some of Varma’s now faded paintings

Gavi Gangadeshwara temple/Harihara Gudda - This landmark boulder cave temple is a geological, historical, and astronomical culmination point.  As per the legend this was built originally by Gautama Maharshi and Bharadwaja Muni in the Vedic period.

1792 Thomas Daniell Painting 

The temple is also known for its four monolithic pillars - Damaru, Trishul and two large circular discs. Civil engineering marvel of this temple is unparallel – On Jan 14^th every year, passage of the setting sun through the cave of Gavi Gangadhareshwara temple to the top of the Shiva linga which is well inside the cave is well known. Do go through this link for astronomical significance: 

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/240617240_Astronomical_significance_of_the_Gavi_Gangadhareshwara_temple_in_Bangalore/

Kempegowda Tower

Here you have one of the oldest hillocks "Harihara Gudda" next to the cave. It is now converted to a park. Thankfully some of the old edifices including Kempegowda tower (western watch tower) still exist. This area is called Gavipuram and is next to Basavanagudi. Both still has old houses/Vernacular style.  These neighborhoods are a reminder of the original Bengaluru

 

Subramanya Temple 

Naraharirayara Gudda/Mount Joy Hill – It is a smaller Gudda & has a Subramanya temple on the top of the hill.  This has geological significance as well as a historical one.  In the early 1900's, this was owned by Late Narahari Rao, a judge in the High Court of Mysore. Any Carnatic music enthusiast would have listened to or heard about Late Bangalore Nagarathnamma who created history at the Tyagaraja Aradhana at Thiruvaiyaru. She used to live in the house owned by Narahari Rao after she moved from Mysore and till she relocated to Tamil Nadu. Old timers still refer to this place as Naraharirayara Gudda. After the temple was built, it has become popular for HaroHara festival and thousands of pilgrims come here during that time.

Ragigudda 

Ragi Gudda – A small Gudda in Jayanagar. The rock resembles grains of Ragi Millet and hence the name. It has an Anjaneya temple on the top. Now unfortunately concrete jungle has taken up what once was farms and greenery at the foothills.

Nandi landscape - 1880's

 Nandi hills – This was one of our favourite weekend getaways during summer holidays with my father. What can one say about Nandi hills? One of the most significant pieces of Earth and just 61kms from Bengaluru.  “About 3.2billion years ago, rocks like granite which makes up the Nandi hills and Dharwar Craton were beginning to form/ Craton is an old stable part of the Earth’s outer layer, the crust. Craton is that part of the Earth’s crust that has remained largely unchanged for billions of years. The rocks that make up Nandi hills originated from this period and became bedrock which the newer rocks aggregated to create peninsular India assembled piece by piece!!!”   Wonder how many travellers who go to Nandi Hills to see sun rise realize this piece of history of Earth. An ideal trekking destination, the prominent places which can be visited from Nandi hills are to the north-west-Channakeshava Betta (4762 ft), south-west Brahmagiri (4657 ft), north, Skandagiri (4749 ft) south the steep precipice and the well at the bottom called “Shravana Tirtha.”  There are two historic temples here: The Yoga Nandishwara temple on top of the Nandi Hills has is Chola style. At the foothills is the Bhoga Nandishwara temple said to be pre 900 CE.

Ramanagara – This town is about 50kms from Bengaluru centre. Here you get to see massive granite boulders of all shapes and size. This belt of rocks extends 50km in the north-south direction. It is now a hot rock-climbing spot.  Will visit again and do a blog on this.  Ramadevara Betta and Vulture sanctuary is a must visit places here

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Mekedhatu – About 110kms from Bangalore you can see magnificent granite rocks. Mekedhatu means Goat’s leap. Long time ago the width of the gorge was small enough for the goat to jump across the gorge but due to erosion it has widened now. Here the river Cauvery runs through a deep and narrow gorge of mind-boggling Granite rocks. This has Confluence of River Kaveri and Arkavathi.

      

Shravanabelegola - The tiny town nestled in between hills is made up of giant boulders haphazardly strewn across the landscape. 2 hills Chandragiri (250 steps) and Vindhya Giri (700 steps) make up Shravanabelagola. A wonderful day trip (about 140Kms) to this historical, religious (Jainism) and geographical significance destination. You get Jains from all over the world here. A 58-feet tall monolithic statue of Gommateshwara built in 981 CE is on Vindyagiri Hill. It is the world's largest monolithic statue. Chandragiri has Chandragupta Basadi dedicated to Chandragupta Maurya, was built by Ashoka in the 3^rd Century BC. Chandragiri also has a famous temple built by Chavundaraya.   A must visit hill.

 

Hogenkal Falls

Hogaenkal Falls – Kaveri River waterfall is about 120Kms from Bengaluru is surrounded by towering boulders. Rocks found here are “Carbonalite” and one of the oldest in the world. Do not miss the caracol boat ride on the river that goes in between these amazing boulders.

Shivagange hills

Shivagange Hills – It is a superb mountain at an altitude of 4488 ft and about 55Kms from Bengaluru. Mountain is in the shape of Shiva Linga) which has superb rocky landscape.   Nowadays, this area is a popular rock-climbing destination.  It is about 2+Kms each way. Only thing to be careful once you reach ½ way on rock carved steps are the monkeys!!! Especially near the peak. There is a Gangadhareshwara temple, Nandi statue and Pathala gange here.

   

Savandurga

Savandurga -  It is the largest monolith hills in Asia consisting of Peninsular Gneiss, granites, dykes and laterites. At a height of 4022 Ft, it is a fantastic trekking and rock-climbing area.  It is only about 60Kms from Bengaluru. It also has very old Narasimha swamy and Veerabhadreshwara swamy temple at the beginning of the trek.

Devarayanadurga – This is at an altitude of 3,940 ft and about 73 Kms from Bengaluru surrounded by awesome forest. This hill has several trekking trails with varied difficulty. The trek to the top of the hill is a rewarding experience and offers panoramic views of the surrounding hills and valleys. The Yoga Narasimha temple at the top of hill and the Bhoga Narasimha Temple at the foothills of the hill is dedicated to Lord Narasimha and is believed to be more than 1000 years old.

Karnataka has such an amazing landscape! Blessed to be here and feel lucky to have travelled and experienced some of these unbelievable rock terrains -  smooth, rough, lumpy, gritty or combination of textures!!!